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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
 Posted - 20 October 2004 : 11:14:44
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What is the EGR valve and what can happen when it fails? Not much used to be heard about this valve until turbos started to appear.
What does EGR stand for and what is the valve supposed to do? EGR is the acronym for Exhaust Gas Recirculation. More than 30 years ago when the US EPA showed concern about NOx (Nitrogen Oxide) emissions, GM engineers came up with the idea of the EGR valve. Its basic function is to reduce NOx emissions. I shall not go into the problems caused by these emissions now or later. They are already well do***ented
When an engine is under load, the very high combustion chamber temperatures produced will increase the amount of NOx. The problem was how to reduce it. The answer - the good ol' EGR valve. This was designed to allow carbon dioxide to be introduced into the combustion chambers as a "coolant" gas. Now like all things produced by man, this valve too had its problems. The EGR valve was designed to open and close at appropriate moments but it could get sticky or even stuck! If it was stuck open, you'd find the engine would have a rough idle or stall. If closed the combustion chamber temperatures would rise under load and you would get "knocking".
Now along comes the turbo. Turbos mean boost and this is created by exhaust gases. Turbos will seize if the exhaust gas temperatures get very high for longish periods as the lubrication will fail due to the increased heat. So if the EGR valve is stuck closed, you've got expensive problems in the pipeline!
I will not go into how the EGR is activated but some are (were) mechanical and some part so with a combination of electronics. They are usually electronic with some exceptions! Now here lies one big problem. Some manufacturers have notorious reputations for poor electronic components and we frequently read about unfortunate people who have turbo failures on their cars. And replacement is not cheap folks - you are looking at a couple of grand or more so the next time your engine starts "knocking" under load or there's a bit of a whistle, don't think about changing plugs if it's a petrol engine or fuel brand, rush down to the dealer with a letter (and keep a copy) saying you are worried that the EGR valve is not functioning properly. Prevention is one hell of a lot cheaper than cure!
And if you have had a turbo replaced, check the service invoice and see if a new EGR valve was fitted. If not, and it's a "sticky" one, then in time the new turbo could fail too!
Hope this helps some of you in the future.
Update December 23rd 2004
It would appear that a major factor contributing to the "sticky" problem caused to EGR valves is due to carbon deposits. Another could well be extended service intervals. Use of a really good 100% synthetic oil, such as Amsoil, will pay dividends as a) bore wear will be reduced considerably and b) engine heat will be dissipated far more rapidly. These two facts alone will considerably reduce the amount of carbon sh*te in the exhaust gas. In turn this will allow the valve to operate more efficiently. And of course more efficient operation of the EGR valve will help economy - the car's and yours too!
Update 10th November 2005
The original object of this topic was to be informative, not to start a thread! It would be easier and better for you and me if, having read it, you posted your problem on the appropriate section of the Ownership Problems Forum.
Toot Toot!
Toady
21.01.08
There are some people on here who don't seem to understand the exact workings of an EGR valve on a modern TD.
CO2 is introduced to cool the exhaust gases and reduce NOx as well as the temperatures of the exhaust gasses.
This is twofold:
1. As mentioned earlier it is done to reduce NOx and meet the latest tough emission figures for Euro 1V compliance and later.
And 2. far more importantly to improve the engine's performance by reducing the turbo temperatures. This in turn leads to the temperature of the air entering the intercooler to be reduced and also increases the life of the turbine shaft bearings for obvious reasons.
How is this done, alex b and his sidekick will surely ask !
Well the exhaust gas temperature is monitored and if it is too high the EMS instructs the EGR valve to open in conjunction with a particular exhaust valve. This why a sticking EGR valve can lead to power loss and/hesistancy when stuck open and when closed cause all kinds of problems frequently leading to turbo failure. The valve can still function but in many cases will remain in either an open or closed position for quite sometime. |
Edited by - AntMat on 21 January 2008 16:38:35 |
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slim jim
Advanced Member
2498 Posts |
Posted - 20 October 2004 : 18:24:21
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Does that include your average turbo diesel engine  |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 20 October 2004 : 18:36:00
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Yes but, of course you won't get the "knocking". The symptoms will be a bit different if the valve is closed - some smoke with a slight power loss increasing to greater power loss followed by a bang. If open then erratic engine operation.
Toot Toot!
Toady |
Edited by - AntMat on 14 July 2005 13:23:46 |
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rickety64
Starting Member
Italy
2 Posts |
Posted - 03 November 2004 : 10:21:11
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HI,
I'm an italian owner of a Renault Scenic 1.9TDCi of 2002.
I drop a few lines here related to a would-be EGR issue.
I'm just back from visiting this morning a Renault Assistance Point after functioning symptoms turned up a couple of weeks ago.
First off, let me say that no issues arose since buying, apart from the excessive replacement of H7-shaped lights (bad choice from Renault itself, I was told...).
Now I'm experiencing power loss when cruising, as well as not a responsive shove when pushing on the pedal.
The guy who tested the car told me right away that the EGR is certainly the cause. What he's going to do is just to clean the valve since it's his believing that it's someway clogged.
Interesting to note that he "blamed" my "rather dull" driving style... Since I'm not used at all to unleash the power till 4k revvs, it's pretty common to find crusty EGR valves after 60k Km. To his sentiment, time to time stretches ran at high revvs at low gears will help keep the Recirculating Circuit cleaner (whithout harm).
He noticed too, that the smoke piped out was not exactly white...
Moreover, he'll figure out if also reprogramming the EPROM of the Central Unit it's the case. Also the battery could be put under test.
He did not mention any big risk related to wrecking the turbo in the next days. I got the appointment for the repair not sooner that next Tuesday (that is, 400Km I foresee to drive from now to Tuesday). (Perhaps, it's worth to ring him up to understand if I can be in jeopardy in the meanwhile...)
He expect to carry out the job in just one day.
It's my intention to keep you informed about how things go on with this (problem iron out? Spent money? Etc.)
quote:
Originally posted by Antmat
Yes but, of course you won't get the "knocking". The symptons will be a bit different if valve is closed - some smoke with a slight power loss increasing to greater power loss followed by a bang. If open erratic engine operation.
Toot Toot!
Toady
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TrevorP
Advanced Member
United Kingdom
16875 Posts |
Posted - 03 November 2004 : 10:34:46
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Welcome.
Congratulations on your excellent English.
Your driving style...may be descibed as "rather dull" in Italy,
but I suspect it may be "sufficient" in England. 
Please keep us posted on the fix to your problem.  |
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rickety64
Starting Member
Italy
2 Posts |
Posted - 15 November 2004 : 16:47:54
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Hi,
I'm back after a few days of testing my Scenic with a cleaned up EGR valve.
The mechanical intervention brought about by the Renault staff was as foreseen after my first visit.
They maintaned to have just cleaned the valve and reprogrammed the EEPROM.
They actually found the valve quite clogged. This is due to oil drops leaking in the circuit and making with smoke particles a sort of "pulp" (...hope I can render in english what I actually would like to mean...).
This greasy stuff is obviously detrimental to the valve functioning, preventing it to let the air flow passing through as expected.
Bottom line, I experienced just no more than some 20 Km during which the car driving looked OK.
Regrettably, in the further miles the initial good feelings turned to old bad behavior.
I got back notice again the lack of smoothness when gearing up, as well as the power loss when cruising.
It's true to say that the sympthoms are actually less apparent than before. So I assume that also the EGR was some way involved in the problem origin.
Today the car is being repaired again. They are going to replace the valve with a new one.
Thankfully, It'll not take me a Euro since I'm still entitled to benefitting from the Warranty Programme I signed at the purchase.
I'll write on about how the car is beheaving in the next miles.
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 15 November 2004 : 20:18:15
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Thank you for your very interesting information. The EGR valve that Renault uses is very badly designed as there should be no interference from foreign bodies or gunge. The "clogging up" is brought about by poor design. This usually happens after a certain time - about 2 years or, in some cases, around 25,000 miles, though it can happen earlier in some vehicles. All in all it is not a satisfactory situation but one that will not be resolved until there is a complete redesign. And that will mean spending more money! By Renault SA. Fat chance - what say you Mr Schweitzer?
Toot Toot!
Toady |
Edited by - AntMat on 16 December 2004 20:49:26 |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 21 February 2005 : 12:24:23
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quote:
Originally posted by rickety64
Hi,
I'm back after a few days of testing my Scenic with a cleaned up EGR valve.
The mechanical intervention brought about by the Renault staff was as foreseen after my first visit.
They maintaned to have just cleaned the valve and reprogrammed the EEPROM.
They actually found the valve quite clogged. This is due to oil drops leaking in the circuit and making with smoke particles a sort of "pulp" (...hope I can render in english what I actually would like to mean...).
This greasy stuff is obviously detrimental to the valve functioning, preventing it to let the air flow passing through as expected.
Bottom line, I experienced just no more than some 20 Km during which the car driving looked OK.
Regrettably, in the further miles the initial good feelings turned to old bad behavior.
I got back notice again the lack of smoothness when gearing up, as well as the power loss when cruising.
It's true to say that the sympthoms are actually less apparent than before. So I assume that also the EGR was some way involved in the problem origin.
Today the car is being repaired again. They are going to replace the valve with a new one.
Thankfully, It'll not take me a Euro since I'm still entitled to benefitting from the Warranty Programme I signed at the purchase.
I'll write on about how the car is beheaving in the next miles.
Let me know how you are getting on.
It should be noted that this is a classic case of all that is wrong with Renault's EGR valve in the dCi engines.
Toot Toot!
Toady
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eddie o
New Member
12 Posts |
Posted - 22 February 2005 : 12:07:21
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is the EGR valve also have something to do with 'shims' little disc things in the engine!
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 22 February 2005 : 13:19:57
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I can't quite understand what you are saying.
The EGR valve has one pipe running into it and two or three running out. The in pipe is from the exhaust manifold/downpipe. It looks a bit like a fuel pressure regulator. Sometimes it is mounted on the block.
Toot Toot!
Toady
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Edited by - AntMat on 28 February 2006 08:24:02 |
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Rasputin
Advanced Member
Christmas Island
3690 Posts |
Posted - 09 March 2005 : 19:15:10
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What would one use to clean a gunked-up egr valve?
It's a common thing over on the mondeo forum for Mk2 TD owners to remove and block off the vacuum pipe - some say it improves smoothness/performance and reduces smoking... But they all seem to agree that it does no harm on that engine model 
I've tried it with mine (trying out some cheap DIY methods of fixing problems I'm getting...), and noticed no difference whatsoever. I did, however, notice black oily gunk leaking out of the bottom of the valve. So I'm guessing it's blocked up and thats why removing the vacuum pipe made no difference.
Not that I'm complaining, imagine if it was a renault that I had a mileage of 190,000 on! 
EDIT: I spoke too soon. My car has stopped smoking (what an appropriate day, too!) and it got 40mpg... Not great, but for the past couple of months it's been 33mpg on a good day!
So the EGR valve must indeed be faulty, at least its something that I can probably DIY (although at £250 odd from Ford, it can hopefully just be cleaned)...
It takes a big man to cry, but it takes a bigger man to laugh at that man.
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Edited by - Rasputin on 10 March 2005 01:01:29 |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 10 March 2005 : 09:47:31
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Take it off and soak it in petrol for 24 hours. Remove any carbon deposits with something like a dentist's pick! If there is a gasket involved, change that. Remember that when you take off any pipes, if they are not metal, the pieces that were attached will possibly have gone hard. Remove each end piece but if it is not then long enough get some new pipe. Are there two or three pipes in/out?
Toot Toot Toady!
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sixshifter
New Member
United Kingdom
31 Posts |
Posted - 29 March 2005 : 15:48:32
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Soooooo.....
Is there any way that one can "degunk" a potentially screwed up EGR... my Laguna has done 35K miles, doesn't look or smell bad, but I just want to make sure that it doesn't go pop... though I guess it might.
If anyone knows of a replacement valve type, or a mod to get round this (on a permanent basis).... or anywhere that can do this.... much appreciated. I need my car for work and can't be ****d having to spend millions on repairs when it should be perfect..
Also, I read a post above, and it states "is all that is wrong with Renault DCi engines"... am I right in assuming that this is the initial root cause of ALL of these engines turbo failures.... if so, what the heck can I do to prevent (or at least prolong) the agony..... apart from flog the car and get something else..... Monaro anyone? (grin)
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 29 March 2005 : 20:07:05
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On the 1.9DCi (F9Q) the EGR valve is located on the rear right of the inlet/exhaust manifold.
It is held in by 3 10mm bolts.. It will help if you move the induction pipe to throttle body first to gain better access..
Unplug the EGR multi plug..
Pull the valve out of the manifold.. Note however that there is a very very good chance that it will be stuck due to carbon build up.. But liberal use of a large pair of grips should get it moving.. It will not rotate any more than 45 degrees in either direction due to the mounting lugs & throttle body..
There will also be a metal gasket either stuck to the manifold or valve or it will fall down onto the under tray.. However you will need a new one.. Only a couple of quid..
Go to your local factors and get some Carbrettor cleaner, or use petrol or paraffin to loosen the carbon build up. Once clean refitting is the reverse of removal..
Also to note on the laguna is the early intercoolers are Crap.. They cannot handle the boost and tend to burst over time.. If you look through to top of the front grille you will be able to see the top of the intercooler. It is silver in colour. (the A/C condensor sits infront of it and is black)
The top of it should be flat.. If it looks bowed then it has or will burst soon.. The modified items have some black band strapping on them to stop this happening..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 30 March 2005 : 10:55:54
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webcode you are an absolute gem. Thanks for that information. Would you agree that the problem with the early intercooler was the specification of the matrix?
Toot Toot Toady!
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 30 March 2005 : 17:55:08
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The new intercooler is the same as the old one..
Apart from half a dozen small straps that have been added to stop it blowing up like a balloon..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
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sixshifter
New Member
United Kingdom
31 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 11:10:52
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Thanks for the info - you are indeed a top geezer...
With reference to the "straps" on the intercooler.... does this mean that I could, possible (he says) DIY some straps to stop the thing going pffft?
Last time I had a car that p*ssed itself, it was the head gasket on a 3litre Omega Elite... nice car... but..... what a tooth dryer (euhp - tooth dryer - noise made through car mechanics teeth when faced with a particularly hairy problem that will cost the owner thousands in repairs, labour and general arsing about)
I will have to check out what's happened anyway....
BTW: I know Ren-No have the facility to check what's been fettled on a car (repair or recall list) via your reg/chassis number - but is there a way the layman can access this without having to trail to the dealers each time... they're very reluctant to tell me EXACTLY what's been done.
Ta very much, I'll have a beer or six for you.
Today. Tomorrow. Towed?
Warning - Driver makes sudden changes in direction - on ALL axes |
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pjcook
New Member
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 12:08:19
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Hi,
I have a Laguna 1.9dci with a '02' plate; it's done just over 50000 miles. I got it about 10 months ago; I didn't receive a service book with the car so I don't know its history (Renault sent a new service book with just a couple of stamps in after several requests). I originally came here to try and find out whether other people had noticed clouds of smoke when accelerating hard and found numerous reports about the EGR valve/turbo problem (which was worrying). I haven't noticed any other problems, such as power loss or erratic engine operation, just occasional yet vast amounts of smoke. Should I be worried? I don't have much experience with cars (I like to avoid tinkering with mechanical stuff) so I wanted to get some advice from more experienced people. I can see that the intercooler has the strapping, so am I right in thinking this is not likely to blow up? If I get Renault to clean the EGR valve and change the oil to AMSOIL (or another good quality oil) every time it goes for a service (every 2 years), will it be okay, or is it inevitable that the thing is going to blow up? It's going for an MoT in a few days; I hope it passes the smoke test!
Thanks,
Paul.
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 19:42:33
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PJCOOK, yes if you can see the intercooler strapping then it should be OK..
The laguna 2 suffers terribly from Front Lower arm ball joint failure.. At 50K they may be shot.. Parts are pretty cheap but the labour to fit new ain't.. Books at 2.7 hours to replace both..
Also check the inside face of the rear discs.. Fairly common to get rusting/scoring etc.. MOT failure if its bad..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 19:45:59
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Also Note that if the Turbo goes and the engine revs away on its own, even after you turn the ignition off (running on its own sump oil). Then you must STALL the car immediately before you end up with Ruined engine! Hold the brake pedal, Stick it in gear and let the clutch up..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 21:01:42
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But it can have an adverse effect on the gearbox can it not? I am concerned that owners seem to be hoping that Renault dealers will clean their EGR valves and fill the engine with AMSOIL. Chance would be a fine thing. My dealer told me that AMSOIL would affect the warranty. I pointed out it would save them money now and cost me money later (when the turbo failed after warranty) !
Toot Toot Toady!
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pjcook
New Member
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 21:32:18
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Thank you for the advise Webcode.
My warranty has expired now anyway, if they won't put in a better oil, they will clean the EGR valve won't they? If not I'll get someone else to do it. |
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 21:36:48
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I use a 5W40 Fully Synthetic oil in my 1.9DCi.. It stays cleaner and is a little quieter..
Look in your owners manual and you will see that 5w40 is on the recommended list.. Something like, Elf Excelium, Castrol Magnatec, Shell helix..
Most dealers will only use aSemi 10W40 oil that they buy in bulk..
Remember also that you can take your own oil into the dealer, not only to save some cash but it then means that you have made the choice on what type.. As long as it meets the correct oil Specification then a dealer cannot refuse to fill it for you..
I would recommend just dumping the clutch when the engine is reving its T**ts off.. Let it up until it stalls, but reasonably quickly if you know what I mean.. And remember a New gearbox is much much cheaper than and Engine..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
Edited by - webcode on 05 April 2005 21:40:56 |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 21:44:59
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webcode I suppose it depends whether the car is still under warranty or not !
Incidentally I agree with you but I am sure that there have been cases where BOTH the engine and gearbox have been stuffed!
Toot Toot Toady!
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pjcook
New Member
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 22:47:04
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| Thanks again webcode, I will probably use the ELF Excellium LDX as it's recommended for Renault engines. |
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webcode
Average Member
346 Posts |
Posted - 05 April 2005 : 23:05:15
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Thing is Antmat in reality I havn't seen any damaged gearboxes but I have seen many dead engines as most people do not know what to do in the event..
Especially when you turn the ignition off and the car is still running on at high revs.. 
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey" |
Edited by - webcode on 05 April 2005 23:05:46 |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 06 April 2005 : 08:09:31
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quote:
Originally posted by pjcook
Thanks again webcode, I will probably use the ELF Excellium LDX as it's recommended for Renault engines.
Renault only recommends Elf! There is no doubt one that of the OEM oil supply deals is in place. "We supply you cheap oil, you promote it in the handbook and on the cars!" Renault and Elf have been cuddling for more than 30 years.
If you are truly concerned about the oil, and I would be, get hold of some AMSOIL 100% Synthetic. It's the best there is. Email Isaac Sibson and he will tell you how to get hold of it.
Toot Toot Toady!
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Edited by - AntMat on 04 March 2006 14:30:28 |
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dazmelling
New Member
10 Posts |
Posted - 21 April 2005 : 11:57:07
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I have got a laguna II (02) 2.2 DCi with 47K on the clock. It has already had the EGR valve replaced twice and is now in for more work with the same symptoms (also had engine mounting block and arm replaced). Luckily the warranty runs till end of June.
Not sure what they are replacing this time but any ideas of what should be replaced/checked now before the warranty ends and what sort of questions I should be asking the dealer (not mechanically minded).
Thanks in advance
Daz
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 21 April 2005 : 13:57:28
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quote:
Originally posted by dazmelling
I have got a laguna II (02) 2.2 DCi with 47K on the clock. It has already had the EGR valve replaced twice and is now in for more work with the same symptoms (also had engine mounting block and arm replaced). Luckily the warranty runs till end of June.
Not sure what they are replacing this time but any ideas of what should be replaced/checked now before the warranty ends and what sort of questions I should be asking the dealer (not mechanically minded).
Thanks in advance
Daz
Welcome to Parker's.
I would suggest that you post this in the Ownership Problems under the Laguna ll Problems & Faults Topic. It is there if you look for it.
I and the Renault gurus will respond I assure you.
You could be heading for turbo failure. I believe that Renault UK authorise the replacement of this valve as so doing will probably take your car past the warranty period without a bang!
Toot Toot Toady!
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Steven715
Mr
United Kingdom
568 Posts |
Posted - 12 July 2005 : 20:13:46
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I think that this tiopic should be pined to the top of the fourm as it is a very common problem. But this has some very good info on the subject!
Steven Watson
Vauxhall Vectra
2.0 DTI
2001 On the Y
Club
Hatchback |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 14 July 2005 : 13:21:59
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quote:
Originally posted by Antmat
Take it off and soak it in petrol for 24 hours. Remove any carbon deposits with something like a dentist's pick! If there is a gasket involved, change that. Remember that when you take off any pipes, if they are not metal, the pieces that were attached will possibly have gone hard. Remove each end piece but if it is not then long enough get some new pipe. Are there two or three pipes in/out?
Toot Toot Toady!
Rumour has it that Renault has issued a new tool for RTEs (Renault Technical Experts). Just guess what it is? I have been telling them to do something about their EGR servicing for well over a year. Should I send them a fee for technical services I wonder?
Toot Toot Toady!
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bondgate
Senior Member
953 Posts |
Posted - 19 July 2005 : 17:36:36
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quote:
Originally posted by Antmat
quote:
Originally posted by pjcook
Thanks again webcode, I will probably use the ELF Excellium LDX as it's recommended for Renault engines.
Renault only recommends Elf! There is no doubt one of the OEM oil supply deals in place. We supply you cheap oil, you promote it in the handbook and on the cars! Renault and Elf have been cuddling for more than 30 years.
If you are truely concerned about the oil, and I would be, get hold of some AMSOIL 100% Synthetic. It's the best there is. Emiial Isaac Sibson and he will tell you how to get hold of it.
Toot Toot Toady!
Just looking back through old posts..
Is Renault recommending solely Elf (Or Citroen recommending Total) legal in this day and age of EU Competition rules?
Shouldn't they leave the option open to you as to the oil used, assuming you pay for it, or is the assumption made that because you have chosen Renault to service the car, then you are choosing Elf oils anyway???
But then, you almost have to have it serviced by Renault anyway, lest your warranty be invalidated.
Not convinced 
"Renault Build A Better Car"
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 19 July 2005 : 17:38:30
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It is only a recommendation - as long as it meet the specification, any oil may be used.
Toot Toot Toady!
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pjcook
New Member
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 20 July 2005 : 16:12:47
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| I was just wondering, would you notice an abnormally high coolant temperature if the EGR valve became stuck closed? |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 20 July 2005 : 16:33:18
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Well the combustion chamber temperature could rise and this would affect the temperature due to the coolant in the head. What car are we talking about?
Toot Toot Toady!
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pjcook
New Member
United Kingdom
41 Posts |
Posted - 20 July 2005 : 16:58:36
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| No particular car really, I was just going on the information about the Renault dci engines, i.e oil temp rises high enough to break the turbo. I just wondered if the oil temperature could rise to that extent, would the coolant temperature also rise significantly. |
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 20 July 2005 : 17:10:46
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In general if the oil temperature rises so does the coolant. We are taking about some fairly significant temperatures here too 800+ centigrade.
Quite a lot of research was done in this area by the Department of Thermo & Fluid Dynamics in Gothenburg, Sweden a few years back.
Diesel engines lend themselves to turbocharging but temperature is critical. At the end of the day my maxim for sound, efficient and long lasting turbos is:
"Clean Oil, Clean Air ~ Cooler Oil Lowers Aggravation (COCA ~ COLA)!
Toot Toot Toady!
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Edited by - AntMat on 28 June 2006 22:31:54 |
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colinc
Starting Member
1 Posts |
Posted - 24 July 2005 : 10:58:56
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I have recently had problems with my Scenic 1.9dci losing power on reaching speeds of 50mph and a warning lamp apearing on dash, AA were called out when first happened and they suggested the EGR valve was faullty. I then read the reviews on this forum and purchased a new one from Renault and fitted myself.
However the problem has not changed, can anyone advise on the solution?
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darrens
Starting Member
8 Posts |
Posted - 08 September 2005 : 18:47:37
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quote:
Originally posted by webcode
Also Note that if the Turbo goes and the engine revs away on its own, even after you turn the ignition off (running on its own sump oil). Then you must STALL the car immediately before you end up with Ruined engine! Hold the brake pedal, Stick it in gear and let the clutch up..
Dealer Technician & MOT Tester but Not a "Monkey"
I had this happen to me 3 times on a 2001 plate dCI, first time it happen I wounder what the bloody hell was happening as I was stood in traffic.
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AntMat
Advanced Member
France
22658 Posts |
Posted - 08 September 2005 : 18:55:59
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So what did you do afterwards? I'm sure that we'd all love to hear the rest of the horror story!
Toot Toot Toady!
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Edited by - AntMat on 04 October 2005 10:14:51 |
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ringstad
Starting Member
Norway
7 Posts |
Posted - 04 October 2005 : 09:56:15
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Someone who have tried to just removed the ****!
Take out the valve and make a smoth pipe there insted?
I suppose it will work, on my Espace `01 2,2dci the valve is monted in the front of the engine a realy big one, with one tube on the bottom from the intercooler/turbo, and one at the top to the intake. and ofcause a pipe one the side from the exhaust.
I think maybee to remove the valve, make a pipe/tube insteed and seal the exhaust!
If I take of the conector to the EGR valve the respons from the car is ok, but if I conect it, I have bad response in +- 2000rpm band! I am meaning the valve lett exhaust gass inn all the time??? when the engine is needed fresh air!
Someone how has a good ide of solving this once for all?
The big enviromental bonus wil this valve never give anyway!
Ringstad, Norway |
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Topic |
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The EGR Valve
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