For any number of reasons, your car could be left static for a lengthy period. Say it’s been blocked in by other vehicles, has a flat tyre or you’ve simply not needed to use it – whatever the reason, there are a few things worth checking before embarking on your first journey back in the driver’s seat. We’ve put together a short list of what to check when you’ve not used your car for a while.
Cars aren’t caravans – they’re designed and built to be driven on a regular basis. If left static, certain parts of a car may start to degrade. Locking systems can seize up, batteries go flat or certain materials wear away – and that’s all within the safe haven of a garage.
So, for the sake of your car’s well-being, your safety and the safety of your passengers, it’s worth carrying out a few preliminary checks to ascertain that everything is working as it should before driving again.
Each of our suggestions will only take a few minutes to complete, and though they may delay your first journey, the process will be worth it to know your vehicle is still in good shape.
First steps to take
Will it unlock and open?
Is there any sign of life when you press the unlock button on your key fob? If the remote central locking isn’t working, use the key blade instead – often neatly hidden away within the fob itself on most modern cars, especially those that have keyless entry.
Keyholes are usually limited to the front doors and boot only. Once inside, unlock the bonnet as you normally would with the latch to take a look at the engine.
Be advised that over time the rubber seals on your car doors or windows may have deteriorated to the point where water has followed freely into the vehicle, resulting in considerable damp and possibly even mould. Proceed with caution if this is the case as your car interior could be a bio-hazard zone until thoroughly disinfected.
Will it start?
The easiest option would be to use a jump-start battery power pack to jump your engine back into life. These useful bits of kit are available from around £60 and include everything you need to restart most petrol or diesel cars, though not every example is capable of jump-starting every engine size, so make sure you have the right pack for your engine before your first attempt.
Alternatively, you could jump-start the car using the power from another running vehicle with a set of jump leads, provided you can get the running car within range of the dead one.
Once the vehicle has been revived, you may find that certain functions are no longer working. Depending on the state of the battery, the time on the clock may need resetting, or the radio may ask for a security code again.
Check engine oil, coolant and washer fluid
If your vehicle has sat stationary for a long period of time, the oil that lubricates the moving components will have sunk back to the sump. You don’t want to starve these components of oil, so it’s best to make sure you have enough before you set off. It’s also best to do this prior to the engine starting up as you’ll have a more accurate reading before it circulates again, though not crucial.
While you’re at it, you may as well top up your windscreen washer fluid to avoid getting caught out amidst the terrors of the natural world without the means to clean your front window.
Windscreen washer fluid can be topped via the screen wash reservoir pipe – usually the one with the colourful cap.
Let the engine run at idle until it’s warmed up properly
You wouldn’t expect a previously bedridden relative to go jogging the moment they’re back on their feet, so afford your car some care by letting it warm up a little before driving again. By letting the engine idle for a few minutes, you’ll give the moving components time to loosen up and all the liquids time to circulate around their systems properly.
Older cars will need longer before putting them into first, but those that have fuel injection systems won’t need any time at all (at least in theory, though we still recommend waiting a few minutes). While you’re waiting, why not check underneath the vehicle for any decay or visible leaks – these will also give an indication as to whether setting off is a good idea.
Check tyre pressures
While you wait for the vehicle to warm up, check the pressures are correct. This also includes your spare tyre if you have one – it may take a few more minutes and it may be a slight faff to gain access to it, but it’ll save you hours of waiting for recovery and having to divert off your original route path to find a fitter elsewhere – and that’s even if they’re open at the time.
You can check tyre pressure with a mechanical gauge, a digital one, or the gauge on a 12V tyre compressor/pump. Many modern cars will have a compressor for space-saver or puncture repair kits, but it’s a useful tool to have. Prices start around £10, but more robust and accurate models are around £25.
Clean debris off the windows and wipers
Another one that takes seconds to check but also look for any splits on the wiper blades. You don’t want to set off anywhere before discovering the wipers smear trapped leaves or dirt across your view. For future planning, if you intend to leave the vehicle outside for a period over winter, thread them into a plastic bag to protect them from the cold weather conditions.
Check bulbs
This is best done with the help of another person, as you can apply the brakes and switch certain systems on and off while they check for you around the vehicle. Remember it’s an MoT failure if any of these bulbs have not been replaced.
On the move
The first thing you may discover is the handbrake proving to be a little stubborn. It may need encouragement to release as it remains stuck on, especially after sitting in wet weather conditions.
This all depends on the direction you are heading, but for example, if you engage first gear (or Drive on an automatic gearbox), and it fails to budge fowards, try reverse and gently nudge the vehicle in the opposite direction – you can effectively rock the car back and forth gently alternating between these gears. This will depend on you having space.
Check the brakes as soon as you drive off as the discs will no doubt be covered with a layer of rust, and while you’re on the move, take note of the vehicle pulling in one direction under braking. This should improve the further you drive along, but only apply the brakes with increased force further into your journey.
If the steering wheel pulls in one direction, this could also be an alignment issue if you know the tyres are all correctly pressured.
