The Honda Integra Type R (DC2) is widely regarded as one of the greatest front-wheel-drive cars ever made. Sold in the UK in limited numbers between 1997 and 2001, this lightweight three-door combines a hand-built 1.8-litre VTEC engine with razor-sharp handling and a pared-back, motorsport-inspired interior.

At the time, it went head-to-head with hot hatches like the Peugeot 306 GTi-6 and Renault Clio Williams, but in reality the Integra Type R was in a class of its own – very much reflected in its modern classic royalty status. It’s a car built for enthusiasts who enjoy being stimulated on the most mundane of drives. That’s why values have risen so sharply in recent years – the days of finding a cheap one are long gone.

So, is it worth paying strong money for an Integra today? The short answer is yes, provided you find the right car. But as with any performance Honda, condition and history are everything.

Honda Integra Type R known faults and common problems

The DC2 first appeared in Japan in 1995, with UK-market cars arriving in 1997. Differences between Japanese Domestic Models (JDM) and UK cars are mostly cosmetic, though spec variations can affect desirability. Whichever version you’re looking at, they’re all now at least 20 years old, and many have lived hard lives.

Below are the 10 most important problems to look out for when buying one.

Buying guide

Common issues, and what to look for if you’re looking at getting one

1. Corrosion concerns

Rust is the single biggest issue facing the DC2 today. Rear wheelarches, inner sills and boot floors are all prime spots, with moisture and road grime easily trapped behind liners and trim. UK cars seem to suffer worse than JDM imports thanks to our salted roads, but don’t assume a Japanese car is immune. Any bubbling in the paint almost always means the steel underneath is already compromised.

Repairs can be costly, especially if panels need cutting out and welding. Fresh underseal or black stonechip paint can sometimes disguise deeper issues, so take a torch and get on your knees during inspection. A car with no history of body repairs is unlikely to be genuinely rust-free after two decades, so paperwork proving previous quality work is often a good sign rather than a red flag.

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2. Oil consumption

Honda’s B18C engine is legendary for its strength and willingness to rev, but even a healthy one uses oil between changes. That’s normal – these engines were designed with loose tolerances when cold, tightening up only when warm. Neglected cars that have been run low on oil are the ones that fail catastrophically, so it’s vital to check dipsticks and ask about top-up intervals.

Blue smoke from the exhaust on overrun or acceleration points to worn piston rings or valve seals, and a rebuild is rarely cheap. Replacement engines are becoming harder to source, and prices are climbing, so budget accordingly. Walk away from any car with heavy smoke or evidence of neglect – there are still good ones out there, but you’ll pay handsomely for them.

3. Worn synchros

Second and third gear are the weak spots in the Integra’s gearbox. Years of fast road driving and countless high-rev changes wear the synchros, and the tell-tale crunch during a quick shift is hard to ignore. A slightly stiff or notchy change can sometimes be cured with fresh linkages or new gearbox oil, but if it crunches consistently, it’s rebuild time.

A gearbox overhaul isn’t cheap, and it can easily run into four figures if done properly. That’s why so many cars are still out there crunching away. When viewing, drive the car until it’s warm and deliberately shift quickly into second and third to check. A smooth, precise gear change is one of the DC2’s joys – don’t accept anything less.

4. Chassis fatigue

These were cars that begged to be driven hard, and many have seen track use. Over time, that kind of punishment takes its toll on the shell. Listen for creaks from the suspension pick-up points and look carefully for cracked underseal or fresh welding. Cars that have been involved in heavy accidents are sometimes poorly repaired, so look along the seams for ripples or mismatched paint.

If the chassis feels loose or unsettled compared with the sharp, pointy feel these cars are known for, it could be a sign of structural fatigue. Even if the car drives straight, long-term cracking around suspension turrets can be dangerous. Pay more for a car with a clean, original underside – you’ll thank yourself when it comes to resale.

5. Suspension wear

The Integra’s suspension setup is one of its great strengths, but age hasn’t been kind. Bushes perish, ball joints loosen and original dampers lose their bite. If the steering feels vague, or the ride is crashy rather than controlled, expect to budget for replacements. Sadly, OEM Honda parts are scarce and pricey, so many owners resort to aftermarket kits.

That’s not necessarily a bad thing – quality upgrades from brands like Spoon or Mugen can improve the car, but cheap coilovers often spoil the handling. A car that’s been dropped to the weeds might look good in photos but is unlikely to drive properly. Unless you want a project, stick with something close to stock height and spec.

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6. Clutch and flywheel

Rev-happy driving and aggressive launches put the Integra’s clutch and flywheel under real stress. You’ll feel it in the pedal – a high bite point or any sign of slipping under acceleration means the clutch is on its way out. Juddering or difficulty getting off the line smoothly can also mean the flywheel needs replacing.

Because of the labour involved, replacing clutch and flywheel together is often the sensible move, but it’s not cheap. Many cars will already have had the job done, so look for invoices to prove it. If there’s no paperwork, assume it’s due soon and budget accordingly. A fresh clutch transforms the car’s drivability and is worth the spend.

7. Interior wear

Lightweight trim and thin carpets weren’t built for luxury – they were designed to save weight. After 20 years of use, many DC2 cabins look tired. The iconic Recaro seats are especially prone to bolster wear and sagging cushions, and finding good replacements is increasingly difficult.

Small details like missing stereo blanks, worn steering wheels and broken trim pieces all add up, and sourcing OEM replacements is becoming a treasure hunt. A scruffy interior can knock thousands off the value of a car, so don’t underestimate it. Conversely, a car with a really tidy cabin is worth stretching for, because restoring one isn’t cheap.

8. Brake abuse

Brakes on these cars work brilliantly when maintained, but hard track use and fast B-road driving chew through discs and pads at a rapid pace. Warped discs cause vibration through the pedal and steering wheel, so don’t assume it’s just tyres out of balance.

Upgraded brakes are common, and decent aftermarket kits aren’t a problem – but check what’s fitted. Cheap drilled discs and bargain-bin pads are false economy. A car that stops straight and true with plenty of pedal feel is the one you want. If not, factor in a proper brake refresh.

9. Electrical niggles

Old Hondas have fairly robust electrics, but they’re not bulletproof. Alternators, starter motors and earth straps are weak points, especially if the car has sat unused for long periods. Poor starting or dimming lights under load usually mean trouble is brewing.

None of these issues are deal-breakers, but they can be annoying and expensive if you have to chase faults. Go through the car systematically: lights, stereo, heater fans, windows, mirrors – everything should work. If it doesn’t, negotiate hard, because most buyers want a DC2 that feels tight and reliable, not a project full of electrical gremlins.

10. Poor modifications

Plenty of Integras have been modified, sometimes tastefully and sometimes not. Coilovers, turbo conversions, cheap induction kits and huge exhausts are common. Unless you know and trust the builder, it’s safer to avoid heavily altered examples.

Original cars hold their value far better and drive the way Honda intended. That said, a car with high-quality upgrades and invoices from reputable tuners can still be worth considering. Look for paperwork, dyno sheets and proof of proper mapping if you’re tempted. Otherwise, pay the premium for originality – it’s the smarter long-term buy.

What models and trims can you buy?

UK cars came only in Championship White at launch, paired with red Recaro seats. Later runs added black or red exterior paint, plus black Recaros. All UK models used the quad-headlamp front end.

Japanese-market DC2s arrived earlier and offered slightly different specs. The ’98 Spec’ cars gained 16-inch wheels, revised gearing and minor cosmetic changes, while the Type Rx added desirable extras and limited-edition paint. Yellow JDM cars are especially sought after.

Whichever you choose, all models share the same high-revving 187hp B18C engine, close-ratio gearbox and limited-slip differential. They’re exhilarating to drive, but the UK cars now command a hefty premium thanks to rarity.

Parkers top buying tips

As with all used purchases, do remember to get a car history check. It might just save you from an unpleasant surprise later down the line. Also, don’t forget you can use our valuation tool to get an idea of how much you should be paying for a car. You can also check our reviews section for more information about the cars you are interested in.

Over the next few pages, we’ll review each aspect of the Honda Integra Type R, taking into account its practicality, comfort, fuel economy and performance. If you’re short on time, you can also skip to our verdict page to see if we recommend this as a good modern classic. 

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